Mixed Media

Stitches and Folds: Sewing on Paper

How to sew on paper by machine and by hand: choosing paper and thread, stitch length, folding paper garments and dress forms, and ideas for sketchbook projects.

An antique sewing machine

A line of stitching on paper does something a drawn line can't: it pierces, it puckers, it has a back side. Paper dresses, folded garments and stitched drawings have been a recurring thread in this studio's history, so here's how to start.

Machine stitching

  1. Use a fresh needle and keep it for paperA size 90/14 universal needle works; paper will dull it for fabric.
  2. Lengthen the stitchAround 3–4 mm. Short stitches perforate paper like a tear-off coupon.
  3. Loosen the top tension slightlyPaper doesn't stretch, so tight tension puckers it.
  4. Sew slowly and pivot with the needle downThis gives clean corners and curves.
  5. Leave long thread tailsPull them to the back and tie off, or let them hang as part of the drawing.

Hand stitching

Pre-punch holes with an awl, through a template, so they line up and don't wander. Waxed linen thread is strong and holds its shape; embroidery floss gives softer color. A running stitch reads as a dotted line; a backstitch as a continuous drawn line.

Folding paper garments

A dress is a simple, powerful form: instantly read as a body, a person, a memory. Paper dresses can be folded from a single sheet (think origami shirts), cut from a pattern and stitched at the seams, or printed flat and assembled afterward. Try printing a collagraph texture onto the paper first, so the "fabric" has a pattern.

A sketchbook project

Pick one form, such as a dress, a house or a chair, and make it thirty times in a single sketchbook, varying only the material and the stitch. Constraint pushes invention, and a bound sketchbook of variations becomes an artist's book in its own right.

Questions

Can I sew paper on a regular sewing machine?

Yes. Use a dedicated needle (paper dulls it quickly), a longer stitch length around 3 to 4 mm, and sew slowly so the perforations don't join up and tear.

What paper is best for stitching?

Medium-weight papers with long fibers, such as printmaking papers, Japanese papers and good drawing papers. Very thin or brittle papers tear.

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